Jackie Kennedy’s Wedding Dress: The Untold Story of Designer Ann Lowe

Jackie Onassis Kennedy wore a silk taffeta gown designed by Ann Lowe, using about 50 yards of fabric. It featured a portrait neckline, a pleated bodice, a bouffant skirt, and a scalloped hem. The dress was decorated with large rosettes and small wax orange blossoms. Jackie completed her look with a rosepoint lace veil held by a tiara from her grandmother, a pearl choker, a diamond bracelet gifted by JFK, and a bouquet of pink and white spray orchids and gardenias. 

Interestingly, Ann Lowe had to recreate Jackie’s wedding dress in less than 10 days after a flood ruined the original that took months to make, along with several bridesmaid dresses in her studio. According to historical accounts, she initially expected to earn about $700 ($8500 in todays money), from that commission, but after the flood she ended up losing about $2,200 (27,000 in today’s money) out of pocket to recreate the dress and the other gowns. The original dress cost $500, ( $7000 in todays money). Ann didn’t disclose about the flood to the Kennedys until years later.

Ann Lowe wasn’t publicly credited for the gown. In that era, Black designers often faced systemic racism, and their contributions were overlooked. Jackie’s wedding dress was widely praised, but newspapers and magazines often referred to it as being by a “colored dressmaker” or didn’t mention her at all, including Jackie herself. Ann Lowe’s work, however, was known in elite circles, and she continued to design for many high-profile clients. It wasn’t until decades later that Ann Lowe’s pivotal role in creating Jackie’s iconic gown became widely recognized.  

When delivering the dress, Ann was told to use the servants entrance, Ann refused and said if she couldn’t use the main entrance that would take the wedding dresses and bridesmaids dress back to her studio.  

Throughout her 50-year career, she created custom dresses for American high society,  Marjorie Merriweather Post, the Rockefellers, and even Olivia de Havilland’s Oscar dress.  Ann became the first African American to open a couture salon on Madison Avenue in New York City in 1965.

Jackie’s original wedding dress is part of the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum’s permanent collection. However, it’s become too fragile to display, so it’s kept in storage at the museum. They sometimes use replicas for exhibitions.

At Jacqueline’s wedding to John F. Kennedy in 1953, her father, John “Black Jack” Bouvier, was supposed to walk her down the aisle. Unfortunately, he became so intoxicated that he couldn’t fulfill that role, and Jacqueline’s stepfather, Hugh Auchincloss, ended up escorting her instead. This was a significant moment because Jacqueline was very close to her father and had wanted him to walk her down the aisle. 

Jackie Kennedy actually preferred a simpler, sleeker wedding dress, but her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy, wanted a more traditional, grand design that aligned with the Kennedy family’s image. Sources indicate that Joseph Kennedy had final approval on the dress design, which overruled Jackie’s personal taste. While she likely had some say in the process, Joseph Kennedy significantly influenced the final choice, ensuring the dress was a statement of tradition and status.

Jacqueline’s daughter Caroline Kennedy’s wedding dress was designed by Carolina Herrera and was quite personal and romantic. It was made of white silk organza with a rounded neckline and short, puffy sleeves. The gown featured shamrock appliqués—an homage to her Irish heritage—and had a long, dramatic veil, very much in line with the big veil trend of the 1980s. It also had a 25-foot train, adding to its dramatic flair. She complemented the outfit with a long veil and white silk opera-length gloves. The dress is often cited as one of Herrera’s most famous wedding designs.